Constellation, le dépôt institutionnel de l'Université du Québec à Chicoutimi

Résumé

Skin aging is the most visible element of the aging process, giving rise to a major concern for many people. Plants from the Ericaceae family generally have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making them potential anti-aging active ingredients. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and anti-aging efficacy of a Kalmia angustifolia extract using reconstructed skin substitutes. The safety evaluation was performed using a 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazolyl-2)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay, while the efficacy was determined by assessing antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity and analyzing skin substitutes reconstructed according to the self-assembly method by histology and immunofluorescence staining (elastin, collagen-1, collagen-3, aquaporin-3). The cell viability assay established the safety of the extract at a concentration up to 200 μg/mL. The Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) assay and a cell-based assay using 2’,7’-dichlorofluorescein-diacetate (DCFH-DA) revealed a strong antioxidant activity with an ORAC value of 16 µmol Trolox Equivalent/mg and a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 0.37 ± 0.02 μg/mL, while an interesting anti-inflammatory activity was found in the inhibition of NO production, with an inhibition percentage of NO production of 49 ± 2% at 80 µg/mL. The isolation and characterization of the extract allowed the identification of compounds that could be responsible for these biological activities, with two of them being identified for the first time in K. angustifolia: avicularin and epicatechin-(2β-O-7, 4β-6)-ent-epicatechin. Histological analyses of skin substitutes treated with the extract showed an increase in dermal thickness compared with the controls. K. angustifolia extract enhanced the expression of elastin and collagen-1, which are usually decreased with skin aging. These results suggest that K. angustifolia has promising antioxidant efficacy and anti-aging potential.